It was predictable: Kebap with Attitude, a new döner joint, interprets the most common of all Berlin dishes as a hipster plate with flatbread.
Who is allowed to listen to hip-hop, wear braids — and make kebab? The discourse on cultural appropriation will arrive at this shop on Gipsstraße in Mitte’s gallery district soon enough. Döner kebab is the favourite dish of Berliners — even the popularity of currywurst pales in comparison. The moreish combination of spicy, greasy, sweet and umami just has that thing. And, just like the wurst, its background is working class: in the case of the döner, with an added history of migration.
And that’s why this question must be asked: Does Berlin need a €7 döner kebab? Does it need a shop whose name (a clever pun on that of old-school rappers N.W.A.) already reveals it as a thoroughly contrived commercial concept?
But on the other hand: this city is home to over 1,600 kebab joints. And now, also one with elaborate interior design, regional ingredients, and higher-welfare meat, free from antibiotics. One that culinarily reimagines the döner kebab. Potentially not only at Gipsstraße — the founders know each other from Vapiano, the German-Italian chain that’s gone global. So they know a thing or two about scalable franchise concepts.
Address: Gipsstraße 2, Mitte | Wed-Fri 5pm-11pm, Sat+Sun 12pm-11pm
Directions: U-Bahn station Rosenthaler Platz