tip English

Neukölln’s 21gramm: Thank the Lord for decent brunch

The café 21gramm resurrects an old funeral parlour in Neukölln for the purposes of very fine brunch.

21gramm in Neukölln (Photo: Clemens Niedenthal)

Twenty-one grams. That’s supposedly the weight of the human soul. And it’s also this beautiful café, located in a former funeral parlour and mortuary on a cemetery in Neukölln. Which explains the name. The owners renovated this charming and, yes, morbid building in close cooperation with the responsible authorities, resulting in a truly unique space. 21gramm is not the first café or restaurant at a cemetery; there is, for example, Café Strauss on Bergmannstraße in Kreuzberg, or Kaffeebar Jacobi just off Hermannplatz. But neither are made as well, preserving this sacred space’s dignity while creating an atmosphere that reflects the living, breathing city. And 21gramm is more than a café – this spring, they are expanding as a fully functioning wine bar, too.

For this expansion, they will be joined by a chef from the Australian brunch place Commonground in Mitte, and the wines will come from the Palatinate (Pfalz in German), or the neighbouring Alsace. Uncomplicated, but no less complex things of handmade quality. The crémant from the German Jülg winery for example, fits well with poached eggs and roast beef on bread from the Bread Station around the corner. Is this still brunch or already lunch? The mixed breakfast plate is almost enough for two – but confusing us with a lost strawberry in the middle of March. A fruit supplier meant too well, they answer when we inquire about the lack of seasonality. This very friendly café means well with us, too.

Address: Hermannstraße 179, Neukölln | Tue, Wed, Sun 10am-6pm, Thu 10am-10pm, Fri+Sat 10am-12am

Directions: U-Bahn station Leinestraße

www.21gramm.berlin